Old Town/New Town: Brewdog Edinburgh & The Oxford Bar
Kate and I spent our honeymoon in Scotland around the start of November. We started with a couple of nights in Edinburgh, which meant we only really had one day to explore, although even that was in a bit of a sleepy, post-wedding daze.
However, we did get to go to two bars outside the hotel: The Oxford Bar and Brewdog Edinburgh. I suppose they’re two extremes of drinking in Edinburgh: the Old Town and The New Town, which would have been a suitably poetic analogy except that the new bar is in the Old Town and vice versa.
Taking the new pub in the Old Town first, we wandered downhill from the Royal Mile into the belly of Edinburgh, the Cowgate. The Cowgate was historically where cows were droved into Edinburgh for sale and was a slum. Nowadays it still feels a bit like you’re in the undercity. The Brewdog bar was a welcome sight, with its stripped back decor and exciting beer boards. On this Sunday lunchtime it was quiet in terms of people, although the metal coming through the speakers was noisy enough.
Kate and I, with the counsel of barman Hoss, enjoyed a good pizza and olives as well as a few beers, including a Stone/Pizza Port Carlsbad/Green Flash Highway 78 (a “Scotch ale”) but the standout was Ballast Point Sculpin IPA: a really, really nice big, fruity IPA, which has deservedly been getting a bit of attention since it’s been available in the UK.
We could have stayed a little longer, but in order to actually explore the city in a state of semi-consciousness, we moved on, after buying a couple of rarities to enjoy later. After wandering around for a bit more we ended up in the New Town and in The Oxford Bar, which Kate had wanted to visit for some time due to its appearance in Ian Rankin’s Rebus novels.
When you go into the Oxford Bar it’s tiny and packed with people. Twenty people would probably fill the front room, and there were around that many in this Sunday afternoon. Kate and I ordered a Deuchars IPA (in tribute to Ian Rankin) and a Williams Black. Deuchars is Deuchars is Deuchars: a multi-award winning, bland, bready thing that teases the possibility of hops but never delivers, that I’m sure excited my naive palate around a decade ago. The Williams Black was, by contrast, too challenging: altogether too liquoricey for an afternoon, more suited to the end of the evening maybe.
But The Oxford Bar has such an atmosphere: the barman held court in friendly chatter with the locals and strangers. The quiet Brewdog bar of a few hours earlier was exciting in its design and the range of incredible beers it had to offer, as well as the knowledge of the staff. The Oxford was a place I’d happily stay for ages, for reasons other than the beer. Much like Scotland.